Review of Delicious

Delicious (2021)
6/10
Fun, full of food, unrelated to any actual history
18 April 2022
Since this film begins with a history of dining out before the restaurant and is touted as being the story of the first restaurant, let me start by saying I'm an actual food historian. I know not only the REAL history of the first restaurant, but the far lesser known story of eateries before that. This film has NOTHING to do with any of that. It reminds me somewhat of the disastrous "Affair of the Necklace" which took an actual and interesting story featuring an anti-heroine and made it into a banal tale starring an idealized and completely invented heroine. In this case, whatever is going on has nothing to do with any real food history and is something of a hodgepodge of (very appetizing) eating scenes and a basically familiar tale of a lesser-status man resisting power and confronting an aristocrat in a way reminiscent of one of Clint Eastwood's heros in his early films. Almost nothing about the intrigue is credible for anyone who knows the period. For a food historian, there are a few cute touches, starting with the suicide of a "La Varenne" early on. This is kind of an in-joke, since La Varenne wrote the first major cookbook to show the newer approach to French cuisine, but in the previous century. The reference to French fries is casual, but blithely ignores the actual chronology of their appearance in France. Never mind that the first restaurant was established long before the Revolution began to foment. The main story here - delivered carelessly and with little regard for history - is the beginning of the overturn of the Old Regime. But to the degree that that story is told it is in a very metaphorical and allusive way unrelated, again, to actual history. This is basically a lively costume drama with a lot of food.
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