7/10
Deftly Focussed Food Experience
10 October 2020
Not your usual US cookery show and one that I grew increasingly fond of over the course of the first season. Padma is a charismatic host but always very wisely takes a backseat to whoever she's interviewing - the focus of each show is a different ethnic group in the enormous and sprawling United States. Refreshingly not confined to a whistle-stop tour of high-class fine dining but also a fairly admirably researched deep-dive into what these groups eat and a look at the history of their cultural identity via food.

The first episode caught me right away with a nuanced look at border states and Mexican cuisine and identity in the modern era. The whole series feels like a very strong reaction to anti-immigration rhetoric in a country made up of thousands of different diasporas and I genuinely felt like I learnt a great deal. The style of the show is a pleasant departure from US norms of nauseatingly fast editing and a general detached sense of embellishment and has the pleasingly elegant and granular texture of a documentary film.

What ties all this together is the effervescent Lakshmi - a person I'd never heard of before but is well-known for "Top Chef" in America. She's a tremendously strong and personable host and, much like the show itself, manages to mix the personal and the professional extraordinarily well. I'm oddly quite excited at the prospect of more of it and what else the format could go on to cover.
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